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From:jeff.dasovich@enron.com
To:cameron@perfect.com
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Date:Fri, 20 Apr 2001 08:27:00 -0700 (PDT)

More recipes. The other part would be fun to read to everyone at dinner.


STRANGOZZI WITH BLACK TRUFFLE
Ingredients (4 people):
500 g of fresh hand-made strangozze, 150 g of black valuable truffle,
extra-virgin olive oil, garlic, sat, black pepper and parsley. br<
Preparation:
Fry slightly the extra-virgin oil, the garlic and some parsley. Take the pan
off from the stove, filter the spices and mix the other oil with the grated
truffle seasoned with salt and black pepper. The pasta must be "al dente".
Pour the sauce on the pasta and mix it on the stove at light heat for a
while, then serve it guarnished with truffles slices.



The TRUFFLE
history of a typical umbrian product

For a lot of people, the word truffle recalls a tuberous entity, marbled on
the skin, with a nice scent, tasting delicious and it is usually associated
to a good lunch, generously wet by sweet wine; for the botanics, instead,
this is just the fruit spreading device of mushrooms wich adapted living in
the underground.
Since from the beginning truffles interested philosophers and scientists,
starting fighting and discussions to whom neither very strict thinkers like
Savonarola could avoid to partecipate.
It is not so strange then that in the first book scientifically talking about
mushrooms which has been printed, the Opusculus de Tuberis di Alfonso
Ceccarelli da Bevagna (1564), was about TRUFFLES. Almost 2000 years before
the Greek philosopher Teophrastus (370-287 a.C.) turned on the discussion
asserting that truffles were vegetables without roots, originated during
winter rains, if there were thunders. Strange theory, without doubts. The
Romans were really crazy for truffles and the Latin poets Apicious and
Giovenal glorified the truffles and their taste, writing also a recipes book.
During the middle age it was the king on the refined tables of every king's
court. In a document from Baron A. Ancaiani (1761) about the "active and
passive commerce of the town of Spoleto" huge quantities of truffles sent to
Florence and Venice are described. It seems they were really requested.
Rossini defined it the Mozart of the kitchen and it is told that Napoleon
used huge quantities of the truffle to provide a successor to his kingdom.
About its botanic constitution, instead, until the late 18th century the
strangest theories continued to be produced. The celeber naturalist Plinio il
vecchio considered them as they were ground corns and a miracle.
Bornolz (1780) thought they were an intermediate class between the animal and
the vegetal kingdoms. Revel, in 1857, said the truffles were the result of a
fly bite on a oak root.
Just after the second half of 18th century the idea that the truffles were
autonomous organisms, or better mushrooms, started to be accepted. Our Umbria
keeps a rich ipogeous flora and since centuries is the first country in
producing truffles, especially the valuable black truffle (Tuber melanosporum
Vitt.) spread around the woods around Norcia and Spoleto. The mushroom has
always different dimensions and it can vary from the width of a nut to that
of an orange and it is very appreciated for the intensity of the smell and
the rich taste. The collecting of the tubers happens during the time between
December and March. Secondary is, in these same zones, the production of
white truffle (Tuber Magnatum Pico) foun in Spoleto nearby valleys, but
impressive is the production of summer "scorzone" truffle (Tuber aestivum
Vitt.) and even of the "hooked" truffle (Tuber uncinatum Ch?teau), which have
a peculiar taste and smell.
what truffles are

With the name truffle are designed mushrooms belonging to the order of
tuberales (Ascomycetes), because the mushrooms have a vegetal body formed by
a white mold (micelius), constituted by thousand of very thin filaments
(ife). This mold lives deep into the ground and it physically unites to the
roots of several plants, originating a very peculiar symbiosis called
"micorriza".
When the ecolocical conditions are fine, the micelius generates the fructifer
bodies which are formed in a variable range of 40-50 cm. deep in the ground.
They are tuber-like shaped, or sheroidal or irregular and they are about 1 to
15 cm. long. The body is made by an internal substance called "gleba" in
which you can distinguish the fertile zones (darker) which carry the "aschi",
a peculiar kind of spore, and in which the spores (the vehicles of diffusion
for this organisms) mature, and the sterile zones (lighter) which surround
the fertile zones, originating in the most evolved species a characteristic
venation system. The "gleba" is protected on the outside by a variable
cortical layer called "peridio", inseparable from the "gleba". The "peridio"
could have its surface smooth or rough or even warted. The color could be
white, yellow-like, rusty, brown or blackish. These mushrooms have several
different species (about 30 in Europe) distributed in all the continents. The
valuable edible species, however, are very limited.
chemical composition and nutritive value

In order to give some information about the nutritive value of this mushroom,
two species of truffles have been examinated: rtuber melanosporum Vitt._
(valuable black truffle from Norcia or Spoleto) and rtuber magnatum Pico_
(valuable white truffle from Piemonte or Acqualagna). The valuable black
truffle has been found in the Quercus Pubescens tartufaia in january. The
white one has been found close to Citt. di Castello (High Tiber valley) in
Populus Nigra tartufaia in November. These two different species of truffle
are not so different about their chemical composition. The proteins are the
main nutrient component for the metabolism: they are complete and rich, above
all of lisyn, cystin and metionin, and they are very digestible. Even the
minaral composition is great. The fat are essentially unsaturated and the
most important is the linoleic acid. It is pretty relevant the fiber content.
how to wash truffles

Before you can use truffles, you must gently clean it from the ground with a
soft brush, in order to eliminate all the ground particles. It is
suggestible, before starting the operation, to keep them under warm water for
a couple of minutes. This will help the ground to fall from the space between
the wrinkles. The skin is edible and it must be ate excactly as the rest of
the truffle, and it is very aromatic and tasty.
how to preserve truffles

Once it has been found in a good condition, it is important to process the
tuber as soon as possible, because it is very easy for it to decay and lose
its aromatic flavour. The soulution to this problem should be left to the
specialized companies. Sometimes, however, you must do it by yourself, so
here are some advice: before all don't remove the ground from the cracks
because it will just accelerate the decaying process, but roll every truffle
in a napkin and put it in a can or a jar, in the less cold part of your
refrigerator. The paper must be changed every day. This procedure will allow
you to save fresh truffles for about 5-6 days for the white one and for 10
days the black one. you can even save the truffles in a can containing rice,
but this is not very smart, because you dry the tuber, taking the air off of
it and helping the decaying. Another sytem is to deep fry the truffles in the
oil, obtaining a sauce you can save in the refrigerator for about a month. Or
you can crush it, if black, or slice it, if white, and then mix it with
creamy butter and add some salt. Then you shape it as a brick or tube, as you
like. Every time you would like to add to a dish the truffle aroma, you can
just add a small flake of this valuable truffled butter, resting in the
refrigerator. It is better to use the butter within a month from its
preparation.
truffles in cuisine
keep always in mind that:
a black truffle must never be grated or crushed in a mortar;
it must never be cooked or too warm;
never mix truffle and cheese;
always use extra-virgin olive oil and salt;
use it in dishes which are not alredy very flavoured (Ex. with boiled or
grilled lake fish, with boiled or grilled poultry and so on.)