Paris

Hi Avrim:

So sorry this took me so long, and I hope you haven't already left---I reca=
ll=20
you saying that you guys were leaving on the 1st, which I hope is the case.=
=20
Anyway, hope that this finds you before you depart.

First, if you didn't buy a "Plan du Paris" ("map of Paris, in English) on=
=20
your first trip, I highly recommend it. All Parisians use it, it costs abou=
t=20
$10-15 and you'll use if for all your other trips to Paris. It's a must fo=
r=20
getting around the town. Every street in the city; all the=20
"arrondissements": map of the subway system, etc.

OK, here goes. It's been a while, and I don't have my "Plan" with me here =
in=20
Mexico, so I'm working from memory. Hope that it's helpful. Once you've=
=20
bought your "Plan," you can reference my suggestions and get yourself=20
oriented, link the walks together, etc.

For an exotic (and cool) experience, go to "the Mosque" ("La Mosquee") in=
=20
French. It's in the southeastern part of the city (15th arrondissement, or=
=20
5th?). Go the cafe in the mosque and have tea. It's just very cool.
La Rue Moufftard (sp?). It starts on the top of the hill where the Pantheo=
n=20
is (across the street from the Luxembourg Gardens). It's a neat little=20
street that winds down the other side of the hill. Go before noon when the=
=20
market fills the street---you can buy a few things and picnic in the=20
Luxembourg Garden.
Speaking of the Luxembourg Gardens, it's a neat place. I'd take a walk=20
through---check out all of the "espaille'd" fruit trees----truly a work of=
=20
art.
Walk to the other side of the Garden (opposite from the Pantheon side) and=
=20
find the "St. Sulpice" church. Very cool neighborhood (St. Germain des Pre=
s=20
neighborhood). The church is on a square; there's a lot of very nice cafes=
=20
and restaurants, and it's the site of the famous "Left Bank" fashion center=
.
While you're over there, wander to the Montparnasse neighborhood and stop i=
n=20
at the "Rosebud" bar. Hemmingway and the gang drank there. It's small, th=
e=20
waiters where little white coats and they play real vinyl records of the be=
st=20
jazz anywhere. Best of all, it's not pretentious. It's hip.
Also there is a cemetery where many famous folks are buried (including Serg=
e=20
Gainsbourg)----cemeteries are of course a big deal in Paris, the most notab=
le=20
being the Pere LaChaise Cemetery, where Jim Morrison is buried. They're=20
Interesting enough, but I don't know if I'd go out of my way....
In the Latin Quarter (5th arrond), check out "L'Ecluse," right on the river=
=20
at the Quai les Grands Augustins, just off Boulevard St. Michel. Little wi=
ne=20
bar with tasty things to nibble on. Great place to take a breather in the=
=20
late afternoon (somewhat) in style.
The Picasso museum in the =01&Marais=018 neighborhood is an absolute must. =
And=20
while you=01,re there be sure to cruise the neighborhood. Very gentrified =
these=20
days (and it=01,s the gay neighborhood), but been renovated into a lot of v=
ery=20
impressive art galleries and fashion houses---very neat.
While there (in the same neighborhood) go to the =01&Place des Vosges.=018 =
Unreal=20
big old square from way back when---great to look at and there=01,s shops a=
nd=20
cafes.
The =01&Institute du Monde Arab=018 is on the Mitterand=01,s =01&seven grea=
t projects.=018 =20
Architechturally magnificent and the exhibits inside are modest and very=20
impressive.
Rue de la Roquette is now extremely hip---on the east side of the Bastille=
=20
behind the =01&new opera=018 (if you get a chance go an opera there---very =
populist=20
experience and fun. Roquette is where the clubs and the musique are. =20
General hip-dome (and if you=01,re inclined to do some real people-watching=
, go=20
to Boulevard St. Germain and sit outside at Les Deux Magots or Caf, Fleure=
=20
and watch away).
Find on your map the church St. Eustache. Walk around east of it for some=
=20
very cool neighborhood viewing=01*used to be big wholesale butchers and suc=
h=20
(extension of Les Halles, which is now a big shopping mall but used to be=
=20
Paris=01, outdoor market). From there walk to =01&Place des Victoires, or =
Place=20
des Notre Dame des Victoires (I can=01,t remember). And look for Gallerie=
=20
Vivienne, too---Belle Epoque little food a shopping corrider=01*very neat.
And finally, while your over there, go to the Palais Royale (by the Louvre)=
,=20
which is where Louis XIV grew up as a boy---fantastic courtyard,=20
controversial artwork (black and white striped columns); walk to the=20
opposite end, exit the courtyard out the back and continue walking in the=
=20
neighborhood.

I=01,ll leave the museums, etc. to you. Sorry to quick and dirty. Have a =
great=20
time. See you soon.

Best,
Jeff